Yukon-River
written: 18.6.2001; paddled: August 1999
Some data on the River
- Rapids: Class 1
- Duration:Carmacks.
- Distance: Big Salmon River to Little Salmon River 58km; Little Salmon River to Carmacks 57km
- Speed:moderate
- Maps:1:1.000.000 ONC D-12 and 1:500.000 TPC D-12A for overview
- 105F - Quiet Lake, #1
- 105E - Laberge, #2
- 105L - Glenlyon, #3
- 115I - Carmacks, #4
- 1:250.000
This is the continuation of our trip on the Big Salmon.
We spent a comfortable night at the buildings at
the confluence of the Big Salmon and the Yukon.
A beautiful morning made it easy to get going, , the date is Friday, 20.Aug.1999. Since the Yukon flows rapidly here, we tied our boats together and improvised a sail. Being lazy is what makes an individually planned trip so pleasant.
On the right side of the Yukon a few miles downstream we finde
the Dredge of Cyr. He did find gold here, but obviously not
enough. This museum is left to rot away.
At Byer's Camp we set up our tents, after catching
2 nice northern pikes in the small lake behind the left shore of
the yukon. Only a small waterway provides access to this lake,
and fishing is easy there. Good to know. Pikes seemed to be
plenty here, and we saw one large fish with an old hook in his
mouth - unwilling to get hooked again. This place is quite
interesting: The tracks are 60+ years old, and still very well
visible. The few huts are not any longer habitable and rotting
away.
Next morning, Saturday, it was rainy, and we paddled to Little Salmon Village. Another german group was having a break here. We took a walk among the few remaining houses, and had a look at the grave-yard with the small houses placed over the graves. An influenca epidemic hit this village and wiped out much of the population in the years 1917-19. This place can be accessed from Robert Campbell Highway, and there are some modern "lodges" here.
We continued our yourney, and a mighty rainbow and another of 2nd order made the afternoon. We arrived at a high camp. It was within the trees, an excellent place, protected against strong wind and weather. The weather seemed to change for a real thunderstorm when we arrived, so we hurried to set up the place. After having done all necessary, it changed to clear sky, and we had a very pleasant evening there.
Next morning was only lightly clouded, and we went on to go to Carmacks. Anke and Claus did start a little before us, they would go faster with their canoe. We with our inflatable boat would toil and move slowly. It was not alway a nice experience to paddle against sometimes strong wind. An inflatable boat is made for white water, and the yukon is NOT white water here. Anyway, early afternoon saw us at Carmacks, where we set up camp just behind the bridge on the left side.
There is also a supermarket at Carmacks, and of course we did spend some money there. On the way back we met 3 indian woman, who were chewing dried meat, and we did get some dried salmon to try. While I liked it, Sabine did not, but made a test anyway. Unfortunately she did not only not like it, but worse, her body didn't like it either, and this resulted in problems which made us to abandon this trip at Minto some days later.
After us a few other germans, austrians and even 2 japanese were there, altogether 22 adventurers. Quite a lot out there.
The camp provided us also with Mosquitos ;-) the wind has completely calmed.
Next day was cloudy, but without wind. Sabine had liquid shit, and of course this is not the very best condition to paddle along. After a short distance downriver we met a german group at 5-finger-mine on the right side. They had already set up camp here, and it is a nice spot. They were avid fishermen, and already catched some fish. From them I received the receipt for graved salmon - something I was reluctant to try in the wilderness because of the odors connected to the process, and the bears that might like this kind of food too. Anyway, they were fond of it. The mine was inaccessible.
Some standing waves and then a quiet Yukon until we approached the 5-finger-rapids. We took the rightmost channel of the 5 channels, and stopped on it's left side behind the mighty rock pillar which I climbed to have a nice look from above on the rapid. It looks quite harmless, but it must have been a serious place for the old steamers. The channel we took was hardly a class 2, however, other channels might be a little more challenging. A viewing platform can be accessed from the Highway.
The last white water of the Yukon is 8km below this rapid, and it is called the Rink Rapids. We took it on the right side without any problems, the standing waves were approx. 40cm high. However, 2 steamboats have had fatal problems here: the Casca II and the Dawson.
Since Sabine did not feel too good, I tried to find a place where we could reach the highway and exit the river. However, the fishcamp Oka was not very suitable for leaving the river, and so we continued to Yukon-Crossing.
On this day we have seen 18 eagles! Many more than on the other days.
This is a really beautiful place to set up
camp. We had to toil to reach it, because it is on the
left side of the River, and we were on the right side, but
it was well worth the effort. The ruins of some big houses
are there, and
there is plenty room for excellent campsites,
even for large groups. There is also plenty fire-wood (without
touching the museeum!!). The picture on the left shows a
small dead water that connects to the Yukon from the left,
and provides an excellent place to park the boat.
The place is obviously used regularly, and
some infra-structure is available. It made cooking and
eating almost luxurious.
Next morning provided us with a
wonderful sight. Blue sky, and lifting fog.
Next day we continued to Minto. The Yukon has some islands, but staying at the right shore is easy. At noon it was drizzling a little, but it didn't last long. In the early afternoon we were in Minto, where we decided to quit the river, and continue our trip by car. My plan was to get on a bus here, go to Whitehorse, and return with a rental car.
After setting up camp, and getting the boat packed, and things tidy, Geraldine, the owner of this place, suggested to take me to Whitehorse by car, since she had to join a woman-group there, and it would be no problem to give me a lift.
We started at 18:40, she dropped me at the rental station, and I started with the car at 22:00 hours. My way back was a little faster than allowed here in Canada, and I was back at Minto at 00:20. My GPS-receiver made it easy to find the campsite in the darkness. Of course I did not forget to buy a few beers at Whitehorse. They were marvellous after arrival, and I slept very well :-)
We continued our trip to Dawson.