South-McMillan-River
22.Feb 99;
Some data on the River
- Rapids: Class 3
- Remarks:
- Distance: 380km approx on the South McMillan, 70km approx on the Pelly
- Speed: reasonably fast
- Maps:1:1.000.000 ONC D-12 and 1:500.000 TPC D-12A for overview
- 105I - Carmacks, #6
- 105J - Sheldon Lake, #1
- 105K - Tay River, #2
- 105L - Glenlyon, #5
- 105M - Mayo, #4
- 105N - Lansing, #3
- 1:250.000 (# sequence of use)
Here is a short report about our trip in August '93:
We, Bert and me, paddled the South McMillan summer '93.
We had an inflatable boat with us: A Grabner Outside. It is excellent for heavy whitewater,
and not that good for paddling a lake or slow river. It is made of heavy-duty material,
however, the weight is around 20kg. Very good for our purpose.
Our plan was to paddle the South McMillan River from it's very beginning (W130°12'/N63°7') and take out at Pelly Crossing. It would be possible to continue the Pelly and via the Yukon reach Dawson.
Getting there
On 28.July we started at 7.50a.m. with UP NORTH, together with 4 Austrians, who wanted to paddle the same river. Thus the price for the transport was reduced considerably for all of us. The weather was perfect and the scenery along the Canol-Road magnificient. Excellent views!
Our destination was bridge #2. There the river leaves the valley where it originates. There we did some hiking, and since the sky was blue all over, we had an excellent view from the top of the 'grey mountain' in the NE of the bridge. Along the road up there is a vehicle graveyard which the US-Army left after abandoning the plan to push the road to Norman Wells into the Mackenzie-delta.
The austrian group had a good time there too: they practiced paddling their canoe. It turned out that they didn't have a lot of white-water experience, and no experience with a canoe. So we suggested some techniques and general rules. On July 30 they left. We wished them luck.
The road is not very far from the river, and if need be, they could always move out again.
That same day we got our boat ready, and with the help of a passing truck moved
upstream. The river flows quite slow in this valley, and it is just nice to paddle,
relax, watch wildlife and generally have a good time.
Paddling the river
July 31 finds us getting ready for take off. I like to have an easy system of fixing our things in the boat, and so I made sort of a net which would fix our big barrel which we used as a storage room. Our food was in 2 smaller barrels in the front and back of the boat, the clothing in watertight sacks tied atop of them. The weigth was evenly distributed, which made for easy turning.The river flows fast, some rocks make it more interesting. After a short distance we find quite large blocks of perfectly rounded rocks in the river, and we decided to have a look around corners before paddling them. There was not really lots of water in the river, and we had to use some roping, pushing and pulling to negotiate some of the places. We had 2 rescue-sacks with us, and we have used them there.
Technical paddling is asked for, and we found, that we were not yet really paddling as a
coordinated team.Which translates to some quarrels as to the best way to paddle and some
moments of countering the mistakes that resulted from different strategies.
It is definitely useful to look around corner before paddling them up here. This short stretch of the river is the most difficult.
Anyway, this first day we made only 5km, and we made our first camp after the rapids finished. There the river makes a sharp turn to the right, and provides for a nice campground.
August 1: From here the river flows slowly in the flats, but not for long. 4 rapids make paddling more interesting. It is a good idea to have a look at them in advance, however, they are not really difficult.
August 2: Some rapids are found on our way to bridge #1. There we tried to find some traces of the austrians. We didn't find any so far, and supposed that they have given up. Passed bridge #1. The river is quite interesting between bridge #1 and brigde #2, and it is a good idea to check things out.
August 3: We meet the Austrians. They are well, and they did carry most of the rapids. No losses. But they had to repair one of their canoes. Their boats proved to be stable even when filled with water.
August 4: Today we have run rapid #1, which would be IMHO a III. On the left side it is quite convenient to have a look at the rocks, and it is good to check it out first. The rapid looks quite powerful, and if one has a swim, there is plenty of quiet water behind to collect oneself and the equipment.
2km after that rapid there is another rapid (III-III+), and one is easily mistaken by it's appearance. Not difficult, but surprising. We stopped just in time on the right shore to have an interesting view, and choose our path accordingly. There is also plenty of quiet waters to collect yourself, however, after the first big waves there is some distance where swimming might be less than pleasant. After this rapid, there is a nice place to stay, which we did.
August 5: Two more rapids. We had a look at them, and enjoyed the paddling. Those rapids offer also a quiet water to get things ready again, if there would be need. There was however a tree in rapid #1, which calles for special care to negotiate the spot. The McMillan really produces a lot of driftwood, and it always pays to be wary of this.
August 8: We camp at the confluence of South and North McMillan. A phantastic place.
August 9: The camp at Russel-Creek is completely deserted. Nobody there, all cabins are open, but in excellent condition. There was a lot of brain put into the construction of this site. Also there is something which is VERY surprising to be found here, and I won't tell here what it is. Whoever find's it knows what I mean.
Also quite surprising: We found a notice on one of the tables, that a friend of the former inhabitants was there yesterday. So we were not alone in that place in the middle of nowhere...
August 10: Moose River. Navigation is not that easy due to the high shores of the river. Also, the maps are not really suited to make navigation with a compass easy. Some mountains can't be seen, and it takes some plotting and calculating to make shure that what I see is what I think is on the map. An interesting exercise, which is eliminated by the use of a GPS. Right now I don't have one, and have to do the calculations.
August 14: Kalzas River
August 15: End of McMillan, Continue on Pelly.
August 16: Arrival at Pelly Crossing. Granite Canyon was no problem at all, hardly any big waves. Departure in Pelly Crossing at 19:10 to Whitehorse.
End of trip.