Home

Big Salmon-River

written: 24.March 2001; paddled: August 1999

Some data on the River

Our trip starts with the arrival in Whitehorse, Can, on Aug.07, 1999. We spend this day and the next with buying the necessary food, equipment, making arrangements for the transport and a fine swim in the hot springs of Hotsprings a few miles north of Whitehorse.
On Monday the 9th at 10:00 a small bus from Canoe People brings us via Canol Road to the Quiet Lake, more specifically to the 2nd place with access to the lake.
2 people from the Netherlands were already there. We set up camp and also inflated our boat, a Spreu Otter which was used on several other trips before.
After having set up camp #1, a couple with a small child arrived. 
It turned out, that the couple from the Netherlands was in a hurry to get the river over with, and planned to make a very early start next morning.
The other couple was not in a hurry, and during the talks in the evening we found to be quite compatible with our interests and intentions, and decided to make the trip together.
We had a lot of fun together.
On Tuesday, August 10, we started. The weather was in the morning bright sun, later overcast, the wind weak, and we could comfortably paddle across the lake to the next lake, which is Sandy Lake.
In the afternoon the wind became much stronger, and it took a lot of effort to paddle against it. An inflatable boat has a great disadvantage on a lake, it does not glide as a canoe does, and which our friends used. 
Finally, we met them at the end of Sandy Lake, the wind had calmed, of course, and we found a nice place to stay and set up camp #2.
Also, it was an excellent place to fish, and we caught each a pike for dinner.
On the right side is a dead arm of the lake, excellent for fishing pike.
late evening. This place provieded great views, also on wildlife.
early morning. On the far right side were 5 moose feeding. 
All in all, we did not see a lot of wildlife, because the forest blocks the view, and because we slept well into the morning. 
What we did see plenty were moose, otters, and lots of eagles.
No bears, no wolves.
But then we did not make this trip primarily to watch wildlife.
The connection between Sandy Lake and Big Salmon Lake provides also a campsite approx. 1/3 into it on the left side. It presents nice views, and invites to stay, which we did not.
Perhaps it is a good idea to spend a few days in this lake region, before entering the Big Salmon River. This provides good views, probably good fishing.
As the weather was warm and the sun shining, we took a bath on the sandy beach of Big Salmon Lake. However, we did not yet set up camp again (which we should have done, because of the great view), and set forth to get to the Big Salmon River. On the way we find a camp for hunters, no people there.
Shortly after entering the Big Salmon River, on the left side there is a fish camp, also nobody there. The river starts flowing briscly, but evenly. Soon we see a first strainer and keep to the left side. It was not difficult to navigate around it, however, the thing was solid.
Shortly after that strainer the BIG JAM blocks the river. It took us some time to get the boats thru it, we used a saw to clear the path and also moved some sand. This seemed easier than unpacking the ships, and carrying the stuff. And it was. Gladly we mounted the boats again, and continued on a branch around the logjam. There are here and there colourful items strewn in: canoes broken and half buried.
The joy over having overcome this mighty obstacl lasted only for a short time: A tree was crossing the river, and we finally had to dismount and circumvent this obstacle, which was however no problem.
Shortly therafter we sat up camp #3.
Next day was exciting: We caught salmon. After some stops to fish - without success for grayling or trout, we finally hit a spot where salmon were waiting for us. 
Immediately we stopped, and started to go for them. I was lucky first, and after an exciting drill lasting 20 minutes or so, I could finally land this magnificient fish.
After killing, the fish is prepared for transport.
The fish is dressed, then tied to the outside of the boat.
The problem with such a large fish was, that I did not want my boat to smell fishy. We did not have a large enough plastic sack with us to put it in, and keep the odors away from the boat. Yukon bears do smell fish easily, and an inflatable boat can easily be ripped even by a bear not intending to damage anything but the fish.
I think, a clean boat makes a happy trip.
Sabine was lucky too, but the salmon did escape: The hook was not large enough, since she was fishing for grayling.
Our campsite #4 was quite sandy, and there were not too many found on this stretch of river. 
This part of river is interesting: There are white sand-dunes, pretty high, and they provide a magnificient view. The shores that are washed by the river, are pretty steep, and one has to take care when climbing them.
In the evening we had the impression to see some clouds of smoke from a burning forest near Carmacks.
Of course, we had plenty to eat from this fish, and it was delicious. We did eat it raw with onion and black pepper, and fried. There was plenty left for the next morning, and then some for the next day. 
The next day was rainy, and the river was very slow. Our next camp #5 was at Moose Creek, well above the water, and LOTs of mosquitos.
We had spaghetti with salmon.
The little girl Karina of our friends had generally a good time. Only problem was before she slept: Somehow she didn't like darkness.

The next day started in light rain, but then cleared up, and it remained overcast but dry. The trip was not spectacular, but we met a commercial guided group. We did pass them during a break they had - luckily, because otherwise we very likely would have had to look for another, lesser campsite:
The otter is excellent for white water, not for lakes or slow rivers.
Here it is fast to simply maneuver the boat and not work hard.
At the end of Saturday we found this very nice campsite #6 on a goose-neck. Excellent view, und NO mosquitos. They didn't come back. Yesterday was mosquito day, then they died.
It is always a good idea to secure the boats and equipment.
The group we had passed was not lazy. 
Shortly after we had set up camp #6, they came paddling by. We never saw them again. 
And, if there is plenty of wood, it is also a good idea to bake some bread, and do some cleaning jobs...
Generally I found the tarp extremely useful. The two groups of us did have one each, and so we had plenty dry room to sit and keep our equipment dry.
Claus, my friend, did show me how to bake a bread, and so I did so. Of course, it was not of top quality, but it was a good start, and in time the bread became better and better. A large pot makes a good baking-stove...
The tents always are put some distance away from camp, and no odorous material except ourselves goes into them. 
We did not hang our stuff into the trees for bear protection. Luckily, we never had bear contact. Neither on this river, nor on the trips before.
At the Bat-Creek I succeeded to catch a grayling, and Sabine was lucky again to hook a salmon. She decided, that I should drill the fish, because the tackle she used was intended for small fish, and I should ruin it myself with the big one. Carefully I did drill the fish, but it turned out, that the small hook did punkture a big blood vessel, and the fish (98cm) gave up very fast.
Again we had lots of fish to eat.
The island was a good spot to set up camp #7.
The boat is not only used for carrying us, it is also a good anchor for the tarp...
Since the weather turned warm again, it was also a good place to swim.

However, weather changes fast here. Next morning it was really hot, blue sky.
By the time we were ready to leave, the sky was heavily clouded, and 1 hour later, it was pouring down heavily.
The rain didn't last long, and in the evening we set up camp #8 on a flat island.
There have not been many good campsites on this part of river. Again we baked some bread, and Claus proved to be a master at this.
A very nice campsite #9 at the confluence of the South Big Salmon, which is (surprise!) a small creek actually. We had a great time fishing there - lost 2 hooks, cought no fish ;-)
This day brought us a goose-neck breaking thru. The river meanders quite strongly down of this confluence, and there was one spot where it very recently did break the goose-neck formed. The spot was interesting, because the current was strong enough and the path was not really clear to be seen among the submerged bushes and fallen trees. Not dangerous, but nevertheless a place to watch.
The Big Salmon finally sports a wide bed, and at the confluence with the North Big Salmon makes a sharp left turn.
A perfect place for camp #10.
The North Big Salmon is a fast flowing river, and impossible to cross without boat. This place has a dune in the back, which can and should be climbed. There you have a magnificient view over the valley. Because of a wild fire some years (1995?) ago there is plenty dry fire-wood.
The Big Salmon is now a wide river. It is flowing swiftly to the Yukon. Especially the last few kilometers give the impression, that it is loosing rapidly altitude. The end of the day is also the end of the Big Salmon River Trip. Little Salmon Village marks the confluence with the Yukon. There we set up camp #11. The date is August 19.
This is finally "Big Salmon Village". It consists of 6 huts, which are not any longer habitable, but document the place.
The area surrounding the huts has seen a forest burn lately, there is plenty fire-wood. 
This is an excellent place to say farewell to the Big Salmon River and celebrate - especially if the weather is warm and nice. From now on we would paddle the mighty Yukon. This village is at the confluence of the Big Salmon in the Yukon.
We have met one group here, which was in a hurry to go down the river. 
This group was a german group, also commercially guided. One of the guys explained the trip they were undertaking, and he provided us with the proverb of the day: "nur Luschies fahren mit dem Bus" (only softies travel by bus - meaning the other part of his group). We had a good laugh. 


For us, the Big Salmon was a very pleasant trip. There were no places to hike up the mountains, but it was nice without hiking too.


Next time I would spend some more time in the lake-area, but then, there are plenty rivers to paddle in Yucon Territory.

Copyright 2006, 2007 © Claus Gregor

last update: 8.2.2007